In the woodland savannah and hill country of northern Serengeti is located a lavishly eccentric construction known as the Lobo Wildlife Lodge. Despite the name, however, first impression one gets is less of a wildlife lodge than a remnant 1970s reservation casino somewhere in the US that happens by pure accident to have been sited in Africa.
It is perhaps not altogether fair to disown some allusions to Africa in the design and construction of this extraordinary building, since there are definitely décor items that deal with this, but on the whole Lobo seems to be principally a design experiment, and a bold one at that. The lodge makes specific use of a cluster of granite kopjes to create a sprawling composition that bridges and tunnels through and between the complex geometry of the landscape. The feeling created is one of earthy living with contrasting pockets of sophistication here and there.
For example from the reception a system of wooden walkways weaves around a smooth granite dome, concluding in a huge bar and reception area, notable for much wood and plate glass, but also on a split level, with a venerable grand piano on one, and an array of Ottoman style furnishings that at a glance give the whole spectacle a southern Mediterranean flavour.
Like it or hate it, Lobo is remarkable, and in some ways defines the quintessence of comfort in the bushveld. The views from various vantages are good – not the best in a competition of fabulous views – but good none the less. In the clefts and folds of the kopje a pool and deck is poised to gaze down on the savannah, while the bar and lounge, behind acres of glass, offer a version of the same basic vista.
Lobo has a microcosmic feel, with most of the interest focused inward, and the room annexes inwardly focused on an internal courtyard. At the time of my visit the whole structure was undergoing a makeover, which might bode ill for the eccentric décor and architecture as a more generic African lodge ambience seems to be taking shape.
Lobo promises despite this to emerge as one of the premier hospitality options in Serengeti, with 75 rooms, 18 of which are king-size double and 57 twin. All are en-suite. The rooming arrangements at Lobo do not compare in elegance and situation to some of the other high profile establishments, but by any standards they are still extremely desirable, and not to be forgotten of course is the overall package of Lobo which is much more than just room and board.
Lobo was built in the 1970s so many of the patently eco-aggressive features such as the astronomical amounts of tropical hardwood can be explained away as the ignorance of the times. However it is not difficult to see that as the property undergoes a makeover a great deal more of this precious and irreplaceable commodity is being shipped in by uncaring Chinese contractors, and no doubt indifferent company directors fixated on one single image of African hospitality that will not and cannot morph.
So poor marks to Lobo for saving the planet, but the potential still exists for a wonderful eco-lodge if the powers that be could just get a grip on precisely what eco means!
This would not be my first choice of lodge to visit for the sake of absorbing the wild ambiance of the Serengeti, but if fate dropped me in the piano bar with a cold beer on a warm evening I would certainly not complain. Under any circumstances Lobo is a comfortable lodge in the heart of a fascinating landscape, and for those with a mind to enjoy the eccentric flavors on offer it cannot be bested.
Rough Travel Africa Style: The Tented Camps & Lodges of Serengeti Mbuzi Mawe Tented Camp Migration Camp Mbalageti Tented Camp Serena Serengeti Serena Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge Serengeti Sopa Lodge Ngorongoro Lobo Wildlife Lodge Serengeti Gibbs Farm Ndarakwai Ranch
